Avant-garde and urban contemporary designs have always been at the forefront of Acne Studios, and this season is no different. After showing in London for a number of seasons, Acne decamped to Paris this time creating a collection that takes apart fashion as we know it and celebrating its rich history.
Jonny Johansson embarked on a tripartite collaboration together with Musée Galliera, Paris’ fashion museum, and Katerina Jebb, whose speciality lies in innovative photographic techniques creating photomontages. Enamoured with the insides of the antique clothing, Jebb scanned these to be used as prints for collection, lending it an abstract air.
There was a focus on tailored and deconstructed silhouettes, paired with flowing layers. Suit jackets were accented with metallic leather patches, trousers were baggy with exaggerated turn-ups and outerwear came in the season’s favourite oversized proportions. Though brutal and harsh in shape, the colour palette softened the looks with coral tones and cerulean blue.
There was certainly a great deal going on in the collection and may appear lacking in focus at some points, but that was the point – to be experimental and brutal with it – which was met with a thunder of applause.