Paris Fashion Week: Jean Paul Gaultier AW13

ean Paul Gaultier decided to present next season’s collection in his historical home, the Salle Wagram, where we saw some of his most memorable collections of the eighties and nineties – around the time when Madonna and the conical bras designed for her launched him into the fashion limelight. 

Like invitations, the choice of location can also lend itself as a foreword to the collection, and from this choice it would be safe assume there will be some sort of trip down memory lane – that it was.

There were long, flowing pleated skirts, modified marinière stripes and a myriad of furs in the form of coats and trenches. The pointy bra did of course make an appearance in shapely peplum jackets, though this time it was more akin to body armour. 

Doused in nostalgia, the collection had a punk-esque, glam rock vibe to it as the models sported scruffy David Bowie slash Ziggy Stardust mullets and layers of leather. As a whole it felt more like variations of his iconic pieces as opposed to a fun, new take on them - simply put, it was a reel of his heyday moments in fashion.

Images: Style.com

My piece above is published on www.theglassmagazine.com where I regularly contribute.

Paris Fashion Week: Comme des Garçons AW13

Push it and push it even further. This is what Rei Kawabuko does season after season. This time however she takes us to infinity, or to be more precise, “the infinity of tailoiring,” as said by the Japanese designer herself. 

Presented in a warehouse in the lively arrondissement of Le Marais where creatives sleep, the catwalk was tight and compact, bringing the audience as close to the model as possible. The suits – with the term used very loosely, for Kawabuko’s creations closer to pieces of art – featured cascading swatches of fabric, rosettes, bows and swelling shapes, which are in fact built into the very nature of the suits themselves as opposed to mere decorations. 

Volume and silhouette – also at the root of many other notable collections in addition to tailoring – were blown out of proportion with meaty shoulders, ballooning sleeves and protruding waistbands from both front and back to the point where models had to precariously turn to the side to let the other pass.

The ensembles came in Prince of Wales check, houndstooth and City-Boy pinstripes, all in monochrome. To begin with. Then came the eye-smacking prints bursting with colour, which were designed by outsider artist Daniel Michiels, all in tailoring as abstract and deconstructing as before. One could say the final colourful pieces were a reminder that life really is not black and white. And it goes without saying fashion, too.

Images: Style.com

My piece above is published on www.theglassmagazine.com where I regularly contribute.

Paris Fashion Week: Acne Studios AW 13

Avant-garde and urban contemporary designs have always been at the forefront of Acne Studios, and this season is no different. After showing in London for a number of seasons, Acne decamped to Paris this time creating a collection that takes apart fashion as we know it and celebrating its rich history.

Jonny Johansson embarked on a tripartite collaboration together with Musée Galliera, Paris’ fashion museum, and Katerina Jebb, whose speciality lies in innovative photographic techniques creating photomontages. Enamoured with the insides of the antique clothing, Jebb scanned these to be used as prints for collection, lending it an abstract air. 

There was a focus on tailored and deconstructed silhouettes, paired with flowing layers. Suit jackets were accented with metallic leather patches, trousers were baggy with exaggerated turn-ups and outerwear came in the season’s favourite oversized proportions. Though brutal and harsh in shape, the colour palette softened the looks with coral tones and cerulean blue.

There was certainly a great deal going on in the collection and may appear lacking in focus at some points, but that was the point – to be experimental and brutal with it – which was met with a thunder of applause.

Images: Style.com

My piece above is published on www.theglassmagazine.com where I regularly contribute.

Paris Fashion Week: Balmain AW13

Olivier Rousteing revelled in the spirit of couturiers like Paul Poiret, Christian Lacroix and of coursePierre Balmain, all of whom took Paris by storm in the late 70s. Even if you put them all together, the result still wouldn’t match the exuberance of the young designer’s collection. 

Rousteing is renowned for his love of extreme silhouettes, and this season he embraces it even further to unfathomable limits. Sharp and defined shoulders lead to even more defined waists before flaring out yet again into billowing harem trousers and draped miniskirts – the perfect balance and complement to the hourglass figure. 

Embellishments were heavy in detail – quilted leather was encrusted with jewels, while strips of leather were woven into an enlarged check resembling tweed. Some of the tailoring leaned a bit too much on the stiff side, though this was balanced with draped silk charmeuse miniskirts and fuzzy angora knits. The collection may seem over-the-top and a bit too bling-bling, but if anyone can make it work, it’s Rousteing.

Images: Style.com

My piece above is published on www.theglassmagazine.com where I regularly contribute.

London Fashion Week: Christopher Kane AW13

Before we delve into Christopher Kane’s autumn/winter collection, let’s take a step back and reflect on the designer’s recent decision to sell a 51% stake to PPR, the group which also has stakes in Gucci, Alexander McQueen and Saint Laurent. It is safe to say Mr Kane has joined the fashion echelon. Naturally, many would opt to think that there will be great changes ahead, however the mini-kilts that powered down the catwalk – a brief acknowledgement of his roots – is perhaps his way of letting us know that he will be doing things his way.

Offering an exuberant excess of 60 looks in the collection, Christopher Kane presented an eclectic range of styles, fabrics and ideas to his audience – including François-Henri Pinault, chief executive officer of PPR. He took us on a journey from fur trimmed camouflage coats and kilts, feather spliced outerwear and rosettes, through to brains fizzing with creativity exploding over cocktail dresses. 

The journey was a beautiful narrative of his achievements – a collection inspired by his archive and injected with even further luxe. Perhaps this was his way of bidding adieu to the former Christopher Kane, before launching himself high into the fashion stratosphere, above and beyond.

Images: Style.com

by Roxy Mirshahi

My piece above is published on www.theglassmagazine.com where I regularly contribute.

London Fashion Week: Unique AW13

While there was a great deal of hype around Topshop Unique’s autumn/winter 2013 show – namely their digital revolution with Google+ – when deep within the 3G-blocking walls of the Tanks at the Tate Modern, it all boiled down to this: our eager anticipation to see the clothes that will reign the high street next season – which is quite clever actually when considering stalwart Topshop is the high street.

If the opening song by Blur didn't vault the audience back to the 90s, then Unique’s collection most certainly did. As the first model Cara Delevigne breezed down the catwalk – the model of the moment – a cropped mohair jumper is paired with a stiff, flared PVC skirt with an oversized fur coat, all in black. This is the 90s Brit pop silhouette. 

Textures are contrasting – matte and gloss are paired together as are dazzling sequins with fuzzy shearling – and prints are inspired by Victorian pub wallpapers and traditional British carpets. The colour palette is, for the most part, soft with cornflower blues and dusty pinks interspersed with punches of scarlet and orange.

For an overtly tough collection, a surprising amount of romance and tenderness came through, and reach us it did – or perhaps it was the nostalgia. Either way, it’s clear that next season’s Unique girl will be the life and soul of the 90s Brit pop party.

Images courtesy of Style.com

My piece above is published on www.theglassmagazine.com where I regularly contribute.

London Fashion Week: House of Holland AW13

British designer Henry Holland stayed true to form last night, having fun with fashion and showing us that he is not afraid of colour, as an explosion of electric blue, avocado green, rich purple and fuchsia descended upon the 70s granny carpet – a huge giveaway to the House of Holland collection’s ode to the decade.

The clashing of the acid rainbow and psychedelic wallpaper prints still managed to somehow give way to an overall feminine feel with shifts and A-lines, while pencil skirts and dresses were given an edge with quilted parka-inspired jackets. 

It wasn't long before cocktail hour made an appearance – jewelled martini glass embellishments and embroideries on box-bright tailoring gave the outfits a loud regal effect – one of Holland’s signature looks.

As is the case with other LFW designers so far including Jasper Conran and PPQ, it is clear that next season certainly won’t be a dull one. Overdosed on nostalgia, Nana Rave – the fitting title of the collection – is one party that shouldn't be missed this AW13.

Images courtesy of fashionising.com

My post above is published on www.theglassmagazine.com where I contribute regularly.

London Fashion Week: Marques' Almeida AW13

Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida are known for reworking 90s street-wear influenced pieces championing a relaxed, deconstructed and effortless aesthetic. What they are most well-known for however is of course denim. 

The past three seasons have seen their signature shredding and slashing mixed with helpings of bright acidic knits contrasted with light chiffon fabric. These elements are still present in their AW13 collection, though this time the duo are keen to prove that there is more to them by exploring eveningwear for the first time – all in a very Marques Almeida way. 

Sophisticated and street, the collection saw nineties silhouettes combined with luxury fabrics – luxurious biker jackets in burnt orange and maroon constructed from pony hair, long billowing parkas in silk, while slit denim miniature trains dragged around heavy semi-court shoes. As for ball gowns, these were given a rough-luxe edge – huge ballooning trousers created the illusion – and skirts were teamed with trousers underneath – copious amounts of pre-millennium nostalgia.

Images courtesy of Firstview

My piece above is published on www.theglassmagazine.com where I contribute regularly.

London Fashion Week: Antipodium AW13

Fashion Week is all about being seen and seeing, right from the pieces worn by models on the catwalk to the audience’s choice of wear, all of which are under constant scrutiny. Creative director Geoffrey Finch cleverly uses this act of surveillance as his inspiration for Antipodium’s AW13 collection. With Sex, Lies & CCTV as the theme of the show, Antipodium peeps breathlessly into private worlds and presents a contemporary uniform of modern classics deftly subverted – clothing fit for a life under constant watch of the eye of the camera lens.

While designs were decidedly prim with polo necks and soft preppy collars, outfits hinted the underlying sexuality of the draped female form underneath – tough masculine outerwear in patent leather and faux pony hair fabrics were juxtaposed against a subtle flash of flesh and translucent silk shirts. 

Known for their instantly wearable pieces, what sets them apart are the delightfully jarring colour combinations, which echo street lights and city life – acid brights paired with softer hues of pistachio, tobacco and velvety reds together with icy metallics, all in cleverly clashing textures.

Images by fashionising.com

My piece above is published on www.theglassmagazine.com where I contribute regularly.