Push it and push it even further. This is what Rei Kawabuko does season after season. This time however she takes us to infinity, or to be more precise, “the infinity of tailoiring,” as said by the Japanese designer herself.
Presented in a warehouse in the lively arrondissement of Le Marais where creatives sleep, the catwalk was tight and compact, bringing the audience as close to the model as possible. The suits – with the term used very loosely, for Kawabuko’s creations closer to pieces of art – featured cascading swatches of fabric, rosettes, bows and swelling shapes, which are in fact built into the very nature of the suits themselves as opposed to mere decorations.
Volume and silhouette – also at the root of many other notable collections in addition to tailoring – were blown out of proportion with meaty shoulders, ballooning sleeves and protruding waistbands from both front and back to the point where models had to precariously turn to the side to let the other pass.
The ensembles came in Prince of Wales check, houndstooth and City-Boy pinstripes, all in monochrome. To begin with. Then came the eye-smacking prints bursting with colour, which were designed by outsider artist Daniel Michiels, all in tailoring as abstract and deconstructing as before. One could say the final colourful pieces were a reminder that life really is not black and white. And it goes without saying fashion, too.